Show Us Your Bryce Renders! Part 5

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Comments

  • TrishTrish Posts: 2,625
    edited December 1969

    Thank you: Horo,Rareth and Elvis....I am still working on it... The light will always come through the bottom of the door unless I rebuild this Daz model....I already had to tear off the roof because of a glitch.....We will see thank you so much for your imput...I appreciate all the help...Trish

  • Fire AngelFire Angel Posts: 259
    edited September 2013

    Here is ...Hungry Babies.....I think the light is all wrong ..I put lights in each of the stalls the roof over hang messes with the rest ...I think??

    Give the lights in the stalls a yellow tint and squared fall-off and things will improve a lot. IBL will do much better for the outside light if you can find a "dawn light" or "sunrise" image to use. Otherwise if you don't want to use IBL then tint the sunlight very slightly yellow and the shadow colour slightly blue or cyan.

    I also think that a little light coming out under the doors is fine, it would happen in real life in a place like that.

    Post edited by Fire Angel on
  • GussNemoGussNemo Posts: 1,855
    edited December 1969

    @Horo: Please do not apologize for providing the information, it is much appreciated. Sometimes the only way I can learn is by being force fed, and hope I remember it long enough for when it's used.

    @Trish: I think what you've done at the horse barn is really good. And I hate to disagree with others about the lighting, but at that time in the morning, before the sun is up, light from the stalls is going to be as intense as you've shown. In my experience of working outside at times before the sun is up, first light usually paints everything with a blue tint, not yellow or any other color. It's only as the sun breaks the horizon that true colors start showing up. And since the sun isn't up in your scene, there wouldn't be the shadow under the eves of the barn because light is being sprayed everywhere. It's again only as the sun breaks the horizon that those type shadows start to show. Now had the scene been of a full moon then yes those shadows would appear. Oh, I almost forgot, the second lady scene does look much better. And if you want that lady to pop just a bit--that has the wrong connotation, but--put her feet back on and expose them. You might be surprised how just adding her feet really improves her overall look.

    @Dave: All those ladies would be welcome if there are enough aphids present to satisfy them all. Nice scene.

    @Pam: Can't offer any solutions to your problem, but like what you're doing, 'cept some of those objects seem to have lost their anchors.

    @David: Oy, more cubes to play with. Those look great.

    @Rareth: Great looking object.

  • TrishTrish Posts: 2,625
    edited December 1969

    Thank you Guss, and fire angel....Well heres what I have done took your ideas and turned the stall lights yellow squared off set at 11 they are still radials there wasn't enough light to be able to see the horses to my liking so I constructed 4 outside lights and added them to the scene.........well heres what I have now

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  • GussNemoGussNemo Posts: 1,855
    edited December 1969

    @Trish: A real nice change, and it does have a night atmosphere to it. One thing I might suggest, as the object (horse) gets further away from the light the intensity will be less. The light hitting the horses' head on the right should be slightly less than the horse right near the light, similar to the light hitting the right side horse head on the left. Still, great scene.

  • TrishTrish Posts: 2,625
    edited December 1969

    Guss: Thanks I am glad you saw that....I missed it....I appreciate your help!! I can't always see things the way other people can.

  • GussNemoGussNemo Posts: 1,855
    edited December 1969

    @Trish: Don't feel like the lone stranger, the same thing happens to me.

  • HoroHoro Posts: 10,646
    edited December 1969

    Looking much better, Trish.

  • David BrinnenDavid Brinnen Posts: 3,136
    edited December 1969

    Thanks David, I also like my feet firmly on the ground, but presently I’m experimenting with lighting and materials and could not find another way to try more materials in a render.

    Thanks Horo

    Thanks Guss but in this case the floating was deliberate, I couldn’t place the camera in a view that appealed to me, You used the right term-balancing act, the lights, the materials, the positioning etc all count to make a good render.

    saurabh.gayali - nice pencil sketch abstracts.I still need to try David’s and Horo’s pencil sketch tutorials

    Dave – love the last one, absolutely beautiful.

    My attempt at David’s Simulating SSS basics I used Horo’s Simplon Hdri. I'm not sure if I got the right effect.

    Sorry I missed this, or I think I did, memory is going... Looks really good! Well done! This is one of the most challenging effects to achieve in Bryce, of course now, the next step is to apply this concept to a more complex geometry!

    Trish, the stables are looking very good, some of the best horses I've seen rendered in Bryce certainly.

    A test of Horo's latest HDRI along with another Wings 3D creation.

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  • Dave SavageDave Savage Posts: 2,433
    edited December 1969

    So I forgot that originally my fairy renders were supposed to be testing out David and Horo's vegetation set, and to bring it back to that, I did another group of ladybirds, this time on the excellent (though time consuming) grass.

    Putting render times to one side (because the end result is worth every minutes of render time). I have to say that what I love most about this way of doing grass is how the shadows interact with the material/terrain. These is no need to soften the shadows at all as they are quite naturally softened by material highlights showing in front of them.

    LadyBugGroupGrass.jpg
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  • RarethRareth Posts: 1,462
    edited December 1969

    Wow the horse stable image came out great..

    @david that is a really cool looking shape.

    @dave the ladybugs are grazing? great image, the vegetation came out awesome.


    I followed the interlocking rings tutorial.

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  • TrishTrish Posts: 2,625
    edited September 2013

    horo: thank you

    David: Thanks and your newest creation ( the green one) is very eye catching..I really think the look of the horses is due to Bryce instead of me

    Dave: The ladybugs look happy with the great looking grass

    Rareth thank you and I really like your interlocking rings

    Post edited by Trish on
  • RarethRareth Posts: 1,462
    edited December 1969

    horo: thank you

    David: Thanks and your newest creation ( the green one) is very eye catching..I really think the look of the horses is due to Bryce instead of me

    Dave: The ladybugs look happy with the great looking grass

    Rareth thank you and I really like your interlocking rings


    oh thanks, now I just have to fight the urge to redo and leave the links as separate pieces so I can import it into Carrara and use the physics engine to drape it properly

  • HoroHoro Posts: 10,646
    edited December 1969

    @David - Möbius thingy is very nicely presented - material and light.

    @Dave - ladybugs on the run for a bush. I agree, the shadows on the grass are awesome.

    @Rareth - the chain came out fine. Very nicely presented, too.

  • RarethRareth Posts: 1,462
    edited December 1969

    Thank you for the comments on the chain, I think it turned out pretty well.. I think I spent more time working on the material for the display stand than the chain itself. still not completely happy with it.

    meanwhile I tried the Torus Knot interlinked chain.. I had problems with the bevel portion, I just couldn't get the bevel amount David was getting, so I deviated and made Lemonade.

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  • Dave SavageDave Savage Posts: 2,433
    edited December 1969

    What I've been working on today is this map of the UK.
    It's for a company that has 6 depots in the UK and Ireland so to represent this, I thought a bit of Bryce might be perfect instead of a conventional map.

    This is how it looks at the moment but I'd really love to get the height more accurate but can't find a greyscale image on the internet I can use to import into the terrain editor.

    UK3.jpg
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  • ChoholeChohole Posts: 33,604
    edited December 1969

    Our mountains in Wales are definitely higher than that. I live at 1200 ft, and this is only considered a hill by serious mountain enthusiasts.

  • RarethRareth Posts: 1,462
    edited December 1969

    What I've been working on today is this map of the UK.
    It's for a company that has 6 depots in the UK and Ireland so to represent this, I thought a bit of Bryce might be perfect instead of a conventional map.

    This is how it looks at the moment but I'd really love to get the height more accurate but can't find a greyscale image on the internet I can use to import into the terrain editor.

    that map looks pretty good.

  • RarethRareth Posts: 1,462
    edited December 1969

    more wings3d model making fun...

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  • JamahoneyJamahoney Posts: 1,791
    edited September 2013

    Savage...CleanTOPO2 might suit (read the DATA part –roughly, at the end the page), but might be too heavy on the downloads. NOAA does have a coloured topographic view of the World also (click on the required square in link), but may not be as detailed as you might want.

    A suggestion: would taking a normal, coloured terrain map of the UK and IE suit (there are plenty of them around, or you could scan one from an Atlas into your comp.,), where you then discard the colour, save it as a grayscale, and work from there?

    EDIT: World map in Celestia might be helpful (found in the Earth: Bump and Normal Map Textures section, where the first one by John van Vleet - 29 Mb). You can them map the Png onto a sphere in Bryce, position it for an overhead view of UK and IE, and screenshot it, into a bump.

    Jay

    Post edited by Jamahoney on
  • Dave SavageDave Savage Posts: 2,433
    edited December 1969

    Jamahoney said:
    Savage...CleanTOPO2 might suit (read the DATA part –roughly, at the end the page), but might be too heavy on the downloads. NOAA does have a coloured topographic view of the World also (click on the required square in link), but may not be as detailed as you might want.

    A suggestion: would taking a normal, coloured terrain map of the UK and IE suit (there are plenty of them around, or you could scan one from an Atlas into your comp.,), where you then discard the colour, save it as a grayscale, and work from there?

    EDIT: World map in Celestia might be helpful (found in the Earth: Bump and Normal Map Textures section, where the first one by John van Vleet - 29 Mb). You can them map the Png onto a sphere in Bryce, position it for an overhead view of UK and IE, and screenshot it, into a bump.

    Jay

    Yes, I'd already seem similar stuff to these Jay... But I was hoping just for a straight on greyscale pic that I could use without having to mess around too much. This job just doesn't have that much money in it for me to spend that amount of time sorting it out. It may have to do as it is, but thanks anyway, I appreciate you trying to help. :)

  • TrishTrish Posts: 2,625
    edited December 1969

    Dave: Did you try using Google Earth.com??? I zoomed in at 500ft. and this is what I got......probably doesn't help much......

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  • TrishTrish Posts: 2,625
    edited December 1969

    Horo: lets pretend you are talking to a 2yr old because that's what I am sometimes at understanding things....I downloaded The Hdr that szark was talking about.....I watched the video...read the directions....you said it could be used in my own renders so heres what I got...from my limited understanding a Hdr adds light to total darkness.....Is that about right?????

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  • dwseldwsel Posts: 0
    edited December 1969

    But I was hoping just for a straight on greyscale pic that I could use without having to mess around too much.

    How about this? http://i.imgur.com/V0txo.jpg

  • RarethRareth Posts: 1,462
    edited December 1969

    dwsel_ said:
    But I was hoping just for a straight on greyscale pic that I could use without having to mess around too much.

    How about this? http://i.imgur.com/V0txo.jpg

    that works out pretty well..

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  • TrishTrish Posts: 2,625
    edited December 1969

    Just trying out something...............Trish

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  • Fencepost52Fencepost52 Posts: 509
    edited December 1969

    Newest TopMod-style object created in Wings 3D.

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  • TrishTrish Posts: 2,625
    edited December 1969

    Beautiful Job on this fencepost......one of these days I am going to have to try out wings...guess I am just stuck on Bryce....did do a render in .....dare I say the darkside(daz studio) but as usual lighting and figuring out buttons has me stumped....Is your model 2 separate objects put together??

  • HoroHoro Posts: 10,646
    edited December 1969

    @Dave - good idea. Would that help? It's out of a 16-bit worldmap and the crop is 512 x 512. If this works for you, I can email it. HJust a quick and dirty render.

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  • David BrinnenDavid Brinnen Posts: 3,136
    edited September 2013

    Horo: lets pretend you are talking to a 2yr old because that's what I am sometimes at understanding things....I downloaded The Hdr that szark was talking about.....I watched the video...read the directions....you said it could be used in my own renders so heres what I got...from my limited understanding a Hdr adds light to total darkness.....Is that about right?????

    Edit - The Bryce sun is only a visible light source because of a sky-lab effect. It can be switched off but still cast light into the scene.

    OK I'll have a stab at this... Think of the HDRI image as being projected onto the inside of a giant sphere wrapped around your scene. This image can be visible or not - your choice in IBL options. The quality control determines the number of simulated light sources generated from the HDRI image. So for example if you have a quality of 16, IBL creates 16 "suns" (distant light sources) distributed around the HDRI sphere according to the intensity and colour of the HDRI at that point in the sky. The exact distribution of these light sources is determined by sampling the HDRI and "looking" at where the lights are needed (the median-cut algorithm - I think - not that you really need to know that).

    Rotating the HDRI in the IBL tab does not rotate the simulated light sources it rotates the image, the light-sources are re-sampled after rotation, so that is why you see variation in the quality of the lighting when you turn the HDRI around. The algorithm doesn't always choose exactly the same spot every time to put a simulated light source.

    Your monitor can only display a very limited range of the light levels expressed in the HDRI (high dynamic range image), but those values do have an effect within the render engine right up to the point when the ray hits the inside of your screen. Tone-mapping is used to bring all the values within low dynamic range (I think so anyway - Horo knows more about tone mapping), in a way simulating the way the human eye adapts to changing light levels - but that in turn will change the quality of the light.

    Fencepost52, looks very nice, like a sort of fused torus knot. An adaption of your previous method I'm guessing?

    Rareth, the chain link loop turned out very nice! The beveling can be "eccentric" it only takes one tiny bit of bad geometry and it won't spread. Clean - up with wider tolerances can fix that sometimes.

    Post edited by David Brinnen on
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