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Iray light brightness

yinliang9yinliang9 Posts: 40
edited May 2015 in Daz Studio Discussion

Thanks to Sickle Yield's nice little tutorial filling me in on the issue of Luminance, I'm able to light my scenes fine by amping the lumens up as high as they need to go through trial and error, but I was wondering... If I set the Luminance Units to watts, apply say a value of 100, and then set the Luminous Efficacy to a real world value matching a new fluorescent light... Shouldn't it give me something bright enough to light a small room?

Am I missing something? Again, it's fine if I just have to play with Luminance, I've gotten results that are just fine through that method. I was just wondering if there's a way to input the real world numbers without any guesswork and make that work as is.

Edit: I found a post in another thread where they were showing examples of fiddling with the exposure settings. For those interested, copying real world fluorescent lighting values for watts and luminous efficacy, then setting F/Stop to 0.82, and Environment Intensity to 0.010, got me a pretty realistic picture! It seems this may be the answer.

Post edited by yinliang9 on

Comments

  • DAZ_SpookyDAZ_Spooky Posts: 3,100
    edited December 1969

    yinliang9 said:
    Thanks to Sickle Yield's nice little tutorial filling me in on the issue of Luminance, I'm able to light my scenes fine by amping the lumens up as high as they need to go through trial and error, but I was wondering... If I set the Luminance Units to watts, apply say a value of 100, and then set the Luminous Efficacy to a real world value matching a new fluorescent light... Shouldn't it give me something bright enough to light a small room?

    Am I missing something? Again, it's fine if I just have to play with Luminance, I've gotten results that are just fine through that method. I was just wondering if there's a way to input the real world numbers without any guesswork and make that work as is.

    Edit: I found a post in another thread where they were showing examples of fiddling with the exposure settings. For those interested, copying real world fluorescent lighting values for watts and luminous efficacy, then setting F/Stop to 0.82, and Environment Intensity to 0.010, got me a pretty realistic picture! It seems this may be the answer.

    In the real world the sun is bright. :) a 100 watt light bulb, not so much. The default exposure settings are for the most common photograph, daytime outdoor photography.

    A Hundred watt bulb is around 1600 lumens. A typical continuous light spot for use on a film set is in the neighborhood of 8000-13000 lumens, if I remember my charts correctly and photographic strobes (granted this is for a very short period of time) output between 1 and 5 million lumens. . You have to, like a photographer, adjust the exposure settings of the camera to adjust for the available light, or add more light to get a properly lit scene. :)

  • yinliang9yinliang9 Posts: 40
    edited December 1969

    DAZ_Spooky said:
    In the real world the sun is bright. :) a 100 watt light bulb, not so much. The default exposure settings are for the most common photograph, daytime outdoor photography.

    A Hundred watt bulb is around 1600 lumens. A typical continuous light spot for use on a film set is in the neighborhood of 8000-13000 lumens, if I remember my charts correctly and photographic strobes (granted this is for a very short period of time) output between 1 and 5 million lumens. . You have to, like a photographer, adjust the exposure settings of the camera to adjust for the available light, or add more light to get a properly lit scene. :)

    Okay, thanks for the reply. :) I'm slowly learning what needs to be done as I play around with exposure settings after reading this. It'd be nice to have a "human eye" setting, but I think the closest thing I'll be able to equate to the human eye is the f-number. That's helped; after a little research, I've learned the default setting for f/Stop is around the upper limit of the human eye.

    So, by taking it closer to the lower limit on dimmer, indoor-lit scenes, it definitely gives me about what I'm looking for from my lighting without too much guesswork. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction. :D

  • DAZ_SpookyDAZ_Spooky Posts: 3,100
    edited December 1969

    yinliang9 said:
    DAZ_Spooky said:
    In the real world the sun is bright. :) a 100 watt light bulb, not so much. The default exposure settings are for the most common photograph, daytime outdoor photography.

    A Hundred watt bulb is around 1600 lumens. A typical continuous light spot for use on a film set is in the neighborhood of 8000-13000 lumens, if I remember my charts correctly and photographic strobes (granted this is for a very short period of time) output between 1 and 5 million lumens. . You have to, like a photographer, adjust the exposure settings of the camera to adjust for the available light, or add more light to get a properly lit scene. :)

    Okay, thanks for the reply. :) I'm slowly learning what needs to be done as I play around with exposure settings after reading this. It'd be nice to have a "human eye" setting, but I think the closest thing I'll be able to equate to the human eye is the f-number. That's helped; after a little research, I've learned the default setting for f/Stop is around the upper limit of the human eye.

    So, by taking it closer to the lower limit on dimmer, indoor-lit scenes, it definitely gives me about what I'm looking for from my lighting without too much guesswork. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction. :D I find adjusting the EV setting to be easiest but that is personal preference. :)

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