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Next : add a IES 100 watt indescendent bulb profile.
rename it to just ,ies (delete .txt at the end)... i can not upload .ies files here.
Note that you must change the values for
temp and lumen manual...
use: 1500 lumens
3000k
Your image is now yellowish...
Because we are not used to see reality on photos (our eyes do after a while a white balance automatic to a degree) we must now do a whitebalance in the render settings....
WHITEBALANCE
Do a render and load the file in a image editor..
measure the RGB values on a part of the image which you know is white or pure grey...
I measured right under the bulb on the floor ( use more then one pixel measure the average of a small area which you know is grey or white).
.... Keep note of the measured RGB values (here my example in photoshop)
And here the values in tonemapping
We have now a nice greyish room again and colors should be fine in a final render.
SAVE
rendersettings
and your light
And so you just started to build your own real ligth simulation ligth library...
Now it's time to test other ligths - something more interesting then our ole 100watt bulb
This îs the same basic scene - i just swapped the IES profile to a PAR38 spot....
Par38 was often used in shoppingmalls, events or outside .. perfect in a larger hall. We are still in a 10x10 meter room and the wall is 5 meter away from our lamp.
Everything looks well balanced to me...and yes - it is a bright light.. if i use more then one in this room - i should lower the sensity of my camera to 400 iso or lower when i go closer.
However - that' how it is done.. more ligth profiles coming soon.... test them in the basic setting - save it... and include the ligths and camera in the interiror render of your wish.
Here the files for the par 38 spot
What a great read and most of this I know and found out myself but it is sure nice to others adopting this method of setting up the lights realistically and then adjusting the tone mapping.
Just one thing I like to add and that I use Watts sometimes as it gives you an extra parameter of Lumen Efficiency. This is really good for different lighting that has different light output like LED, low wattage but a high Efficiency rating. I have learnt that I get the best when using either Lumens or Watts.
As for IES profiles yes I am a little pissed that they don't set up all the parameters in Iray. Would be so much easier if that was implenented.
A great read guys. Special "Thanks" to Andy for all the time invested here. I'm a photographer by trade and you really helped me get a grasp on IRay in terms I understand.
So another question for anyone, in IRay settings, what is "Beam Exponent"? Played with it, can't see it doing anything.
Beam Exponent is the ligths fall-off from the border to the brightest center.. a exponential gradient in a theoretical light calculation... point the spotligth against a wall - open the beam angel wide then play with the exponent and you can see it well....
If you compear the spotligth with the Par38 example above...it shows clearly that using profiles on pointligths looks way more realistic...
The spotligth ( used a exponent of 10 to come close to the Par) has no scattering and the beam is to strong after 5 meter.. (compeared with the Par38 - on the right side)..
@Szark
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after reading some IES profiles manual i understand now that it is a very weak standard - color temparature is simple not there - and even the start luminance value is optional - so it is definitly not DAZ's false
I dont see where can we use watts for a ligth ? how are you doing that? - about usefull or not - only watt is meaningless without the watt/lumen ratio...
LED are about 4 - 5 times stronger then indescendent bulbs... bulb 100watt = 1500 lumen... 1watt/15 lumen ligth.. LED (they all differ sligthly) 25watt = 1500 lumen... 1 watt/60lumen... but we have the same brightnes in this example.
@evilded777 Well i would not say "pushing".... i think it is simple very confusing for people without DSLR knowledge to figure out how iray works.... Also that DAZ use a skyligth tonemapping by default without a indoor render setting example dosent help...
.
And i think it should not be possible to set non real camera values in tonemapping - i mean with a F-stop 2000 we need ligths with millions lumens to see something
The things i am missing is motion blur and a nicer bokeh - looks like a very very cheap lens to me
I wonder if the Lens Thickness setting has anything to do with that? I haven't tried that parameter yet.
The thing I found about DoF is that you have to set it up in the camera using the settings you want to get the sharp area where you want it and then have to set the Environment and Tone Mapping to get the lighting right
These two image have the DoF set for just in front of the coffin/sarcophagus to just behind it. Lighting is from preset lights at the candles which came with the model with the one nearest the figure brightened to get more light on it. I brightened the second image up in Tone Mapping.
yes - DOF with a wide field is ok- the background is just a little bit blury like in your example...
.
... looks as we have to create our own... (and also some variables - because every flickering candle will generate a unique shadow.
But just something i noted on the first view, i do like your image BUT - the candle ligth shadow on the floor are.. hmm
A candle ligth does not create symmetric shadows - my first tougth was - well let's search a ies file for a candle.. but same as for 100watt bulbs it seems that is top secret now
When I first rendered it in 3Delight I thought it was the base of the candlesticks, after two or three different light setting renders I realised that it was the shadow
It was just a test scene for Iray to see what all the parameters did and what changes to them did to the render so I wasn't too bothered.
Watts can be found under the same drop menu as Lumens. a 100w light and a 25w LED my have the same lumen output but the 100w has only a 15% Luminance Efficiency whereas the LED is more up on the 50 - 60 side. So with that the LED become brighter than the 100w GLS.
I never have been very good with lighting and IRAY is no exception. For now, all I want to do is turn OFF shadows since I'm not doing scenes--just figures. How do you turn off shadows in IRAY?
Iray, at least in the default Photoreal mode, always has shadows on - it is simulating reality, where opaque objects always block the light. In practice because of the way Iray works I doubt turning shadows off would have much effect on timing.
Thanks for the response. Interactive (as opposed to photorealism) also casts shadows so it looks like I cannot use IRAY for figures only since I do not want shadows.
@astahri_92d2b1fd44
"“Where there is light, there must be shadow, where there is shadow there must be light. "
I am searching also for thungsteen photoligths rigth now... if there is enough interest i will continue my basic scene example - with a 3 and 5 point light photostudio setup und correct cameras. Just check back here in some days.
If you uncheck Draw Ground in the Environment group in Render Settings you won't get ground shadows, but you will still get self-shadowing so I don't know if that helps.
Is it Eulumdat that requires color temp? Or the newer specification? Some of the files I've looked at have color temp data in them.
There are several LED 'candle' profiles around...look for 52243 Verbatim LED Candle 2.5W
A bunch of them here: http://www.olino.org/advice/us/overview/results?fitting=E14&lamptype=bulb_all_around
But none of them are a 'real' candle.
Unfortunately, most the studio lights these days are being replaced by LEDs
@astahri_92d2b1fd44
It is possible to simulate a very even diffuse ligth (coming from everywhere) using a large sphere and the emissive shader (two sided on)....
This is kind of ligth on a cloudy day.......
In the attached example i used a large sphere of 50m... with 10000 lumens and 6500k... the shadows are very soft and nearly eliminated. Maybe that's what you looking for - a 1 time and forget ligth set up - you can just "walk around the model" and it looks always even lite.
you don't need two sided when using a primitive for light i.e. Soft Box. Use the Geometry Editor Tool and flip the normals so it lights internally. That will save some render time and calculations.
@AndyGrimm
I'm wanting a transparent background, and it seems the diffuse light gives a grayish background. However, I do like the look you achieved. Thank you.
@RichardHaseltine I tried unchecking the Draw Ground in the Environment group in Render Settings and still got a ground shadow :/
I have MS so my brain doesn't process information very well and I appreciate all of your suggestions. They help
Vikki
@mjc1016
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Yes - i also just replaced a whole stage ligth setup (par56 and 64) with LED fixtures - it is nice without the heat
I look for the ies indescendent originals because LED manufactures aim to copy them (and cheat a lot in the specifications) - and stage ligth designers and photographers still want to work with the lumens they are used too.
I found really great ies tools and some nice free car models here: - http://www.rip3d.net/web/en.html#/free/downloads
@Szark
good tip... But actually i was surprised doing this test set above in 10 or 15 minutes including setup and preview quality renders - using just a entry level Geforce 710m... even-soft ligth renders FAST
Thanks for that.
Andy I can only use CPU so I try to keep the calculations down to a minimum
thinking about candles - well LED candles looking artifical to me because they dont have the right light profile... a real candle has a soft shadow downwards because the wax is translucent. i looked on a bunch of candle photos - as thicker the candle is - so stronger the shadow to the floor. ..
But checking LED candles right now
The one way I got them to look good in Luxrender was to attach them to a modeled candle with a 'glossytranslucent' wax. Without the actual geometry they looked more like 'glowbugs' than candles. I imagine that is what would need to be done for Iray, too. And the lowest lumen/wattage ones looked best, in my opinion.