A Million Texturing Questions

VIArtsVIArts Posts: 1,515

Dumb question: How do you "bleed" textures you make in Photoshop? i don't just scale it up a little, right?

 

Also, i need to paint seams/hemlines, but I'm no clothing or Photoshop expert. my lines just look like part of the design. Are there seam/hem brushes or some kinda clever trick to do it?

Comments

  • PendraiaPendraia Posts: 3,598
    edited October 2022

    I'm not sure what you mean by bleed? Do you mean like an ombre type texture?

    In regards to hems and seams it depends on the style you're looking for. You can buy brushes that mimic sewing lines or create your own in ps. I bought a variety of stitch brushes for use in ps most were bought from Rendo. 

    Also when you say they just look like a line are you using any shadow or even using a displacement,  bump or normal map to make it look better? 

    Post edited by Pendraia on
  • VIArtsVIArts Posts: 1,515

    When you create textures using the UV map as a guide, even if you fill the parts to the very edges, there will be areas where the texture parts don't quite touch each other when you load it on your model. It leaves you with ugly white streaks at the seams, so it helps to let your texture spill, or bleed, outside the UV guide a few pixels.

     

    I just never needed to do it in Photoshop with so many colors and matchups along the edges. Afraid simply scaling would knock things out of alignment.

     

    Could you PM me links to those brushes?

  • Catherine3678abCatherine3678ab Posts: 8,385
    edited October 2022

    You're correct, we do not scale up the images! What is to be done is to "paint outside the lines." 3 or 4 pixels minimum. This may be called the buffer zone or seam allowance [if one likes to refer to sewing].

    Post edited by Catherine3678ab on
  • lilweeplilweep Posts: 2,550
    edited October 2022

    MAJourney said:

    When you create textures using the UV map as a guide, even if you fill the parts to the very edges, there will be areas where the texture parts don't quite touch each other when you load it on your model. It leaves you with ugly white streaks at the seams, so it helps to let your texture spill, or bleed, outside the UV guide a few pixels.

     

    I just never needed to do it in Photoshop with so many colors and matchups along the edges. Afraid simply scaling would knock things out of alignment.

     

    Could you PM me links to those brushes?

    i think that issue with 'guttering' around the edges of the UV is expected, so most people will add padding around texture.

    you wouldnt need much so maybe just scaling out (the edges only) or using liquify or something to pull the edges out would work in photoshop.  

    In most 3D software you can just set the padding value on export, like Marvelous Designer and Substance Painter, but i assume in photoshop it might be more of a manual process, unless there's a quick way in Photoshop to inflate the edges to give you padding, but ive not heard of it.

    Post edited by lilweep on
  • PendraiaPendraia Posts: 3,598

    MAJourney said:

    When you create textures using the UV map as a guide, even if you fill the parts to the very edges, there will be areas where the texture parts don't quite touch each other when you load it on your model. It leaves you with ugly white streaks at the seams, so it helps to let your texture spill, or bleed, outside the UV guide a few pixels.

     

    I just never needed to do it in Photoshop with so many colors and matchups along the edges. Afraid simply scaling would knock things out of alignment.

     

    Could you PM me links to those brushes?

    I'll have a look for the link.  What I do to avoid white at the seams. 

    1. On the texture template I use the magic wand to select the areas that aren't part of the texture map. 

    2.I use the inverse function to reverse it so the areas that need texturing are selected I then modify the selection and expand it by 2-5 pixels. I try to have the separate parts not touching.

    3. Then I create a new layer and fill it with medium grey which I use as a base for either bump or displace maps. 

    By having a layer where I can select each section separately helps when creating the texture. 

    Hope that helps. 

  • Seven193Seven193 Posts: 1,103
    edited December 2022

    MAJourney said:

    Dumb question: How do you "bleed" textures you make in Photoshop? i don't just scale it up a little, right?

     

    Also, i need to paint seams/hemlines, but I'm no clothing or Photoshop expert. my lines just look like part of the design. Are there seam/hem brushes or some kinda clever trick to do it?

    An old Photoshop plugin did this under Filters.
     

    Post edited by Seven193 on
  • If you textures are on a layer, with tranparent surrounds, you could make duplicates of the layer(s), place them behind the real data, and seelctively scale them (or use Liquify to push them out)

  • VIArtsVIArts Posts: 1,515

    Thanks, everyone! Looks like I still have more work to do. 

    Back in the day, DAZ had a nifty little standalone program called Stitch Witch that  was designed for texturing. You could extract the template and a snapping grid from an obj directly in the program, define areas, stick tiles/ribbons.buttons/etc to it. It had sliders for bleed (or whatever you wanna call it, but it was Bleed in this program) and shadows and everything. 

    Come to think of it, I mightstill have it. Haven't used it or created textures in 8000 years. But...I already created my color map in Photoshop, so...meh. 

  • StitchWitch still works in W11 :-)

  • PendraiaPendraia Posts: 3,598

    Some things I've learnt...

    You should always use new layers rather than altering the original layer. 

    You can also organise them into folders. I normally do this so they are organised into diffuse, bump etc

    Make sure you name each layer to reflect whats on it.

    Keep trims separate to the main colour as it will be easier to modify if needed. 

     

  • VIArtsVIArts Posts: 1,515

    Boohoo...it looks like I might be starting over. I kinda messed up.....like an artist.

  • VIArtsVIArts Posts: 1,515

    Catherine3678ab said:

    StitchWitch still works in W11 :-)

    Do you remember which PA?

     

    It looks like people can download it on 3d-stuff.  i was just looking for possible updates.

  • MAJourney said:

    Catherine3678ab said:

    StitchWitch still works in W11 :-)

    Do you remember which PA?

     

    It looks like people can download it on 3d-stuff.  i was just looking for possible updates.

    AFAIK it is no longer legally available anywhere. One has to have purchased it while it was ... which it was at Daz3D. If said batch of orders aren't missing, should be in the Product Library.

  • VIArtsVIArts Posts: 1,515

    Okay, got it. Here's just the flat base coloring.

     

    Now, i'm not sure what to do with it. What kinda material should it be? Spandex? Leather? Where should i paint seams?

     

    I is clothing impaireded. lol

    fr.png
    2048 x 3314 - 3M
    bk.png
    2048 x 3314 - 3M
    l.png
    2048 x 3314 - 1M
  • PendraiaPendraia Posts: 3,598

    Seams on that would be on the sides and inner legs. Plus shoulder seams... most likely Lycra or spandex. Good start...

  • VIArtsVIArts Posts: 1,515

    My next question is: How does she get Inanx out of that? Lol

     I want to put a "flap" on the front that would've covering a neck-to-chest zipper. But I'm not sure that can be pulled off right with displacement or normals. I've never done normals   If you look at someone wearing a pair of jeans from an angle , you can tell the flap over the zipper is stitched on one side but not the other because of shadows. 

  • Catherine3678abCatherine3678ab Posts: 8,385
    edited October 2022

    I think the style calls more for one of those invisible zipper types at the centre front. Basically a slightly thicker, darker line where the zipper would be and of course a little textured pull-tab up top.

    Sample images: Google search click here

    Post edited by Catherine3678ab on
  • PendraiaPendraia Posts: 3,598
    edited October 2022

    I've often wonder that with 3dclothing. In real life it would have to have a zipper down the back or front and yes what you're talking about with a flap, seam on one side and across the bottom sounds right and to get it to look realistic you would need displacement or a morph to create the depth required. You'd probably need a bump to add texture to the fabric also.

    Post edited by Pendraia on
  • carrie58carrie58 Posts: 4,005

    I'd say in an outfit like that out of spandex the zipper would be down the back and what they call "invisible" so there is only a tiny flap on each side makeing it less obvious .Yup I sew some ....

  • VIArtsVIArts Posts: 1,515

    Invisible zippers!? I've never seen one of those. laugh

     

    Since artists like me can be a bit technical, I gotta ask...how would she zip it herself if it were in the back? I mean,  I can barely reach past my shoulders...;lol

     

    okay, gonna try drawing seams .....

  • carrie58carrie58 Posts: 4,005
    edited October 2022

    well there are zipper helpers ,or have a friend zip you up ,or a lot of contorsions ...... kinda like  the suits surfers wear with the zip in the back is one example

    invisiblezip_main.jpg
    732 x 600 - 464K
    Post edited by carrie58 on
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