More Non-photorealisitic Renders (NPR II)

juvesatriani

Oso3D said:

Using my OsoToon

 Really love the shading especially in skin and lighter area  . Great render !! 

@pavsikakyj WOW...thats amazing !!

Artini

Oso3D said:

Using my OsoToon

You should make some easy to follow, step by step tutorial, so maybe more people will use it. I can't.

 

Oso3D

I started a thread here to talk about using OsoToon:

https://www.daz3d.com/forums/discussion/493731/osotoon-feedback

 

TheNathanParable

I can't remember if I posted this one here already, but here is my own attempt at using OsoToon!

https://www.daz3d.com/gallery/user/6736226870624256#gallery=newest&page=1&image=881736

pavsikakyj

PwToon+Ubersoft, Photoshop, PhotoSckethcer

 

Artini

Oso3D said:

I started a thread here to talk about using OsoToon:

https://www.daz3d.com/forums/discussion/493731/osotoon-feedback

 

Thanks for that. Will try to follow the tips there.

 

Artini

Nice look, @pavsikakyj

Oso3D

And another, tweaking method:

In this case I used shader pass to create a sketchy look (soft light) and then straight shader result (overlay) to darken and get the light balance right.

 

mindsong

Oso3D said:

And another, tweaking method:

In this case I used shader pass to create a sketchy look (soft light) and then straight shader result (overlay) to darken and get the light balance right.

great to see you,

you've got something great going on in this one. On the edge of realistic and clearly/intentionally toon.

best,

--ms

kenmo

 

Rendered in DAZ 4.15 with Iray

3D model "Dinokonda" purchased at DAZ 

Postwork Photoshop CC 2021, Topaz Studio 2 (Impression filter), ArtRage 6

 

 

Artini

@kenmo: Could you reveal what you do in each program, even briefly, please.

 

kenmo

Artini said:

@kenmo: Could you reveal what you do in each program, even briefly, please.

 

1) Open up the DAZ render in Photoshop CC 2021

(I render to a PNG so there is no background or only the data to appear in the background)

 

2) Change the image from 8 bit to 16 bit mode

 

3) Duplicate the layer several times

 

4) Leave the bottom layer alone and lock it

 

Within Photoshop  run Topaz Studio 2 as a plugin.

 

5) The layer above the bottom layer is opened up in Topaz Studio 2

Under Add Filter, select Impression

Select a brush under stroke (I usually select brush #1,2,3 or 7)

Set the number of strokes to high

Select the Brush size, the higher the more paintery it looks

Under Texture - I set Background Type to original. This eliminates any canvas from showing through and fills the voids with the original image

Select Accept

In Photoshop turned down the saturation to near desaturation but not completely.

 

6) I now select the second layer above the bottom original & launch Topaz Studio

Under Add Filter I select Remix and then option Ashen Waves (or sometimes Charcoal Edges or Ink Blot)

In my Dragon Snake I selected Ink Bot. In Lost Warrior I selected Ahsen Waves.

Under the Saturation slider, I desaturate the image by pulling the slider to the extreme left.

I play with the Brighness & Contrast slider to get the amount of ink or pencil lines I want.

Select Accept

In Photoshop select layer mode to multiply

 

7) I did not do this step for my Lost Warrior but used it on Dragon Snake

Select the third layer above the bottom layer

And place a canvas texture below it.

Merge the two layers.

Launch Studio. Under Add Look search for Da Vinci Sketch and select the one you like best.

Play with the number of strokes, brush size etc. I try for a sketchy look with random pencil sketchs 

on the background

Select Accept

 

8) Delete the bottom original layer or make it invisible and move the Da Vinci sketch layer to the bottom

And place some textures on top of the Da Vinci sketch. Adjust the opacity & layer mode of the texture layer.

 

9) Now mask out what you do not want to show in any of the layers and you should have something like my Dragon Snake and merge the layer. Save to PNG or Tiff

 

10) Open up in Artrage and place a layer underneath and place some brush strokes using the Thick Oil brush and create some brush strokes. I also use the paint tube and move it about with the palette knife to create an impasto look like in my Ape in the Gold Helmet or Lost Warrior. For my Dargon Snake I did not do this. I created two layers above the rendered image where  added some color to the dragon in one layer (blend mode of layer set to color)  and added more pencil marks to the other laye ABOVE the rendered image (blend mode set to normal)

 

I hope this helps.

Artini

kenmo said:

Artini said:

@kenmo: Could you reveal what you do in each program, even briefly, please.

 

1) Open up the DAZ render in Photoshop CC 2021

(I render to a PNG so there is no background or only the data to appear in the background)

 

2) Change the image from 8 bit to 16 bit mode

 

3) Duplicate the layer several times

 

4) Leave the bottom layer alone and lock it

 

Within Photoshop  run Topaz Studio 2 as a plugin.

 

5) The layer above the bottom layer is opened up in Topaz Studio 2

Under Add Filter, select Impression

Select a brush under stroke (I usually select brush #1,2,3 or 7)

Set the number of strokes to high

Select the Brush size, the higher the more paintery it looks

Under Texture - I set Background Type to original. This eliminates any canvas from showing through and fills the voids with the original image

Select Accept

In Photoshop turned down the saturation to near desaturation but not completely.

 

6) I now select the second layer above the bottom original & launch Topaz Studio

Under Add Filter I select Remix and then option Ashen Waves (or sometimes Charcoal Edges or Ink Blot)

In my Dragon Snake I selected Ink Bot. In Lost Warrior I selected Ahsen Waves.

Under the Saturation slider, I desaturate the image by pulling the slider to the extreme left.

I play with the Brighness & Contrast slider to get the amount of ink or pencil lines I want.

Select Accept

In Photoshop select layer mode to multiply

 

7) I did not do this step for my Lost Warrior but used it on Dragon Snake

Select the third layer above the bottom layer

And place a canvas texture below it.

Merge the two layers.

Launch Studio. Under Add Look search for Da Vinci Sketch and select the one you like best.

Play with the number of strokes, brush size etc. I try for a sketchy look with random pencil sketchs 

on the background

Select Accept

 

8) Delete the bottom original layer or make it invisible and move the Da Vinci sketch layer to the bottom

And place some textures on top of the Da Vinci sketch. Adjust the opacity & layer mode of the texture layer.

 

9) Now mask out what you do not want to show in any of the layers and you should have something like my Dragon Snake and merge the layer. Save to PNG or Tiff

 

10) Open up in Artrage and place a layer underneath and place some brush strokes using the Thick Oil brush and create some brush strokes. I also use the paint tube and move it about with the palette knife to create an impasto look like in my Ape in the Gold Helmet or Lost Warrior. For my Dargon Snake I did not do this. I created two layers above the rendered image where  added some color to the dragon in one layer (blend mode of layer set to color)  and added more pencil marks to the other laye ABOVE the rendered image (blend mode set to normal)

 

I hope this helps.

Thank you, very, very much. Very nice description and I like that you have used iray render as a base.

kenmo

Yes, I prefer to use IRAY. However in the image "Gorilla with Gold Helmet" I used 3D Delight as there were no Iray materials for the Gen 2 Gorilla.

In ArtRage if you place a blank layer BELOW your images. The brush strokes will appear in the layer above but with no color. Only the strokes appear. I also use this technic in my photo paintings.

Oso3D

Experimenting with FotoSketcher again, finding some great combos (I think this ended up being Pencil 1 Hard Light over Watercolor 5)

Oso3D

UltraScenery and good ol' PWToon.

Oso3D

Been obsessed with not doing the project I should be doing.

 

juvesatriani

Oso3D said:

Been obsessed with not doing the project I should be doing.

 

 Impressive images !!! and for " Been obsessed with not doing the project I should be doing." I feel you :)

kenmo

tkdrobert said:

Spiderman Poster

 

 

Love it... Looks awesome....

 

Oso3D

UltraScenery, thicket man tweaked to look crystalline, Crayon Master (FilterForge) & Watercolor 5 (FotoSketcher)

 

Artini

Looks amazing, Oso3D.

What did you have used in the famous "Been obsessed with not doing the project I should be doing."

Thanks for any tips on that.

 

Oso3D

And more.

I tend to use Crayon Master (FilterForge), then posterize lightness (FF) if I want a very smooth color or Watercolor (FotoSketcher) if I want something more artistically clumpy.

In this case I waffled a lot until I made sure to send a really high contrast image to get a good Crayon Master look.

pavsikakyj

Tuned textures with FotoSketcher

 

pavsikakyj

Added some outlines with Topaz Studio

 

Oso3D

First is all PWToon, second is PWToon lines plus PWToon color filtered through FilterForge.

juvesatriani

Oso3D said:

First is all PWToon, second is PWToon lines plus PWToon color filtered through FilterForge.

Nice render and style  

juvesatriani

Trying Filament as base render and give color shift+boost in photoshop

Oso3D

Nothing fancier than straight PWToon render. My recent discovery that render line tessellation 1 works great with PWToon has really... enthused me. The only real trick now is managing lighting and simplifying textures and relying more on bump and outline to define many elements (particularly background elements).

This is my vulpine. So, again, texture mapping doesn't work for dhair, but in this case a single color works fine (if I wanted I could take the time to separate out zones and create multiple fur items, but I didn't feel like it)

Previously I had used a narrow threshold for shading to create a more 'toon' sense. Now I'm electing to control that more with lighting (with some shadow softness, but not much, and no AO). A lot of the simpler appearance I had hoped to achieve is really best done by changing the textures to be either a single color or, if I need to, really go in and make a newer, very subtle shaded texture.

 

Artini

juvesatriani said:

Trying Filament as base render and give color shift+boost in photoshop

Very nice and Filament is very fast to render. Please make more Filament based images. How to deal with Genesis 8 characters in Filament?

 

Artini

Oso3D said:

Nothing fancier than straight PWToon render. My recent discovery that render line tessellation 1 works great with PWToon has really... enthused me. The only real trick now is managing lighting and simplifying textures and relying more on bump and outline to define many elements (particularly background elements).

This is my vulpine. So, again, texture mapping doesn't work for dhair, but in this case a single color works fine (if I wanted I could take the time to separate out zones and create multiple fur items, but I didn't feel like it)

Previously I had used a narrow threshold for shading to create a more 'toon' sense. Now I'm electing to control that more with lighting (with some shadow softness, but not much, and no AO). A lot of the simpler appearance I had hoped to achieve is really best done by changing the textures to be either a single color or, if I need to, really go in and make a newer, very subtle shaded texture.

 

So it looks like, PWToon strikes again and gives even better results than any iray based techniques.

Very nice images.