PAs - Please make props (rooms, furniture, etc) to scale

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Comments

  • maclean said:

    So, perhaps a step in the right direction would be for the next version of Studio to contain a measuring tool that one could calibrate for a scene and attach to an object to read-out in realtime it's "real-world" dimensions as one is scaling the object.enlightened

    I requested a feature for DS a couple of years ago. I asked if the Scene Info pane (which gives the poly count) could be adapted to include measurements of an object in the scene. Never heard any more about it.

    Lightwave makes this so easy. You select an object and click on this tool. It shows you the size on each axis with the option to change each axis individually. 

  • novastridernovastrider Posts: 208

    I rather like a room that's not to scale, but aimed at camera placement. Gives more room to turn around and not bump into walls everytime you move (PS: removing walls is not a great option, screws up the lighting).

  • LeanaLeana Posts: 11,848
    lilweep said:

    is it that hard to rescale a bed or am i missing something

    Why yes, yes it is!  There are no real-world dimension indications in Studio.  Shrink or expand your bed easy-peasy, but determine when it's 80 inches long.  Priceless.

    There's measure metrics for that, or you can use a primitive scaled as a mesuring rod, or one of the various measuring rods freebies. IIRC there was also a freebie script to do that available somewhere.

  • jjmainorjjmainor Posts: 490
    lilweep said:

    is it that hard to rescale a bed or am i missing something

    Actually yes. Without a good scale to work from it is al guess work. Is there a good daz ruller prop? I saw a freebie in the friebies forum but I could not make it work. Also, If I rescale the bed then the room may need to be resized or items on the counter etc. What is most needed I think is a univeral scale in daz where one inch is the same for everything. 

    2.54 = 1 inch in DS

    If you set a prop at 2.54 on the x-axis, you've offset it 1 inch from center in the DS world.  A 6ft character has the top of his head hitting.182.88 on the Y-axis.  It probably helps more if you're modelling in Hexagon where those values are adjusted by 10%.  ie. 1 inch = .254.

  • WendyLuvsCatzWendyLuvsCatz Posts: 38,627

    ...or use metric like the rest of the world devil

  • richardandtracyrichardandtracy Posts: 5,951

    Even England is slowly releasing its death grip on English units. My kids don't know what a furlong, barrel, peck, bushel, tun, rod/pole/perch or chain are. They are also foolish enough to think gills are parts of fish, not units of volume. They think hands and feet are parts of people rather than measurements; Stones are small lumps of rock, not a unit of weight (14lb to the non-British english unit users). They also think that a slug is a repulsive squidge when you tread on it, not the unit of mass that accelerates at 1 ft/sec^2 when a force of 1lb is applied to it. They also think a BTU is probably a K-Pop band rather than a measurement heat. I have been peripherally aware of the existence of units like a Cord, Rick, Ell, Span, Finger, Rood, Bovate, Hide,Puncheon, Butt, Firkin, Pottle without knowing what they are. If you need further 'English' units to convince you of the oddity of the system look here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/English_units

    When you think about it, english units are really silly & should be ditched for something that was thought through, as opposed to growing up piecemeal over millennia. I have used English Units for engineering purposes in my working life, when playing with aeroplanes, but I do find it easier to work in metric. When working out item masses (needed for stress analysis), densities are usually given in lb/ft^3, but you need them for consistency to be in lb/in^3, and dividing by 1728 is not something I can do in my head, but kg/m^3 can easily be divided into kg/mm^3 simply by dividing by 10^9.

     

  • nicsttnicstt Posts: 11,715
    Sevrin said:
    Ruthven said:

    True, "average" height vary a lot through genders, ages and countries; but, at least talking about contemporary styled props and furnishing, I think somebody who wants a more-or-less dimensions guide applyable for most countries could use Ikea's stuff dimensions as a starting point. Please don't take this suggestion as a wannabe-promo for their product. I'm just considering that they're selling the same stuff all through the world, and as far as I can know, there are not dimensions differences through countries, so we could consider it a more-or-less universal reference, just as the Big Mac is used as working-hour value measurement in economy studies.

    Well, that's more or less true about IKEA.  I vividly remember purchasing lovely bedding at IKEA that wouldn't fit North American standard beds, pillows, comforters, etc.  There are actual standard references used by architects, etc that have been mentioned above that are safer bets.

    Especially this passage from the linked text tells more about americans than about IKEA: "Eventually, executives realized that Americans were buying the vases to drink out of, as the Swedish company’s glasses were too small for local tastes." I wonder if in Texas IKEA sold more of the biggest vases, because we all know "everything's bigger in Texas" devil


    And more to the OP:

    Living in Germany I've encountered lots of different styles for rooms. Right now, I'm living in a house built in the 17th century, which has no rooms to live in on the ground floor, but only a former carpenter's workshop and a room for the heating. The rooms are about 10 feet high. Then there's an upper floor, added around the 1950's, which has rooms of about 8 feet height. "About" means, that a wall can be 7'11" on one side of the room and 8'1" on the other side... Another floor was added to this house in the 1970's or so, which only has 7 feet high walls. No a single part of the whole house is build with drywall - it's all bricks and mortar..

    In early times of my life, I visited a friend living in a historical part of my hometown, in a buidling from the 13th century. The rooms there were about 6 feet high, with some wooden bars on the ceiling, reducing the height to 5'6" or so beneath them. With me being about 6'3" moving in that room was an interesting and nearly backbreaking experience...

    So there's lots of different options for the size and height of ROOMS... but usually everything inside these rooms is measured to an average human height, modified only by age, as in the olden times the average height of people used to be a bit smaller than now. Therefor you're right to expect models to be scaled properly - and in fact a little bit smaller than for G8 figures, as these tend to be above average height of modern people - or for historical furniture maybe even a bit smaller - except for the beds of royalty, which to my knowledge in some - rare - cases were large enough to accompany a group of people.

    And yes, I've got some PAs kinda blacklisted too for trying to sell stuff that obviously was made in "hurry up and take a lot of shortcuts" mode... and I don't talk about old stuff, but some quite recent things in the shop...
     

     

    When mum and dad retired, they sold their house which was a large georgian property. The rooms were something around 14 feet high; the hall was the full 3 stories the property held. The stairs were different than most homes in that the were slightly lower with a deeper step - they were a joy to climb.

    So variation occurs, but providing variation and not to scale are different.

    The room might look like it isn't to scale, but all the components in it might be; that could well be a deliberate design decission; alternatively, the room could be about right but some of the components in it are just wrong. That is one example of what the OP means - or is my interpretation. :)

  • nicsttnicstt Posts: 11,715

    ...or use metric like the rest of the world devil

    Indeed - subdivisions of ten are much simpler; I was brought up imperial, but mostly use metric. Driving is the only thing really.

  • nicstt said:
    Sevrin said:
    Ruthven said:

    True, "average" height vary a lot through genders, ages and countries; but, at least talking about contemporary styled props and furnishing, I think somebody who wants a more-or-less dimensions guide applyable for most countries could use Ikea's stuff dimensions as a starting point. Please don't take this suggestion as a wannabe-promo for their product. I'm just considering that they're selling the same stuff all through the world, and as far as I can know, there are not dimensions differences through countries, so we could consider it a more-or-less universal reference, just as the Big Mac is used as working-hour value measurement in economy studies.

    Well, that's more or less true about IKEA.  I vividly remember purchasing lovely bedding at IKEA that wouldn't fit North American standard beds, pillows, comforters, etc.  There are actual standard references used by architects, etc that have been mentioned above that are safer bets.

    Especially this passage from the linked text tells more about americans than about IKEA: "Eventually, executives realized that Americans were buying the vases to drink out of, as the Swedish company’s glasses were too small for local tastes." I wonder if in Texas IKEA sold more of the biggest vases, because we all know "everything's bigger in Texas" devil


    And more to the OP:

    Living in Germany I've encountered lots of different styles for rooms. Right now, I'm living in a house built in the 17th century, which has no rooms to live in on the ground floor, but only a former carpenter's workshop and a room for the heating. The rooms are about 10 feet high. Then there's an upper floor, added around the 1950's, which has rooms of about 8 feet height. "About" means, that a wall can be 7'11" on one side of the room and 8'1" on the other side... Another floor was added to this house in the 1970's or so, which only has 7 feet high walls. No a single part of the whole house is build with drywall - it's all bricks and mortar..

    In early times of my life, I visited a friend living in a historical part of my hometown, in a buidling from the 13th century. The rooms there were about 6 feet high, with some wooden bars on the ceiling, reducing the height to 5'6" or so beneath them. With me being about 6'3" moving in that room was an interesting and nearly backbreaking experience...

    So there's lots of different options for the size and height of ROOMS... but usually everything inside these rooms is measured to an average human height, modified only by age, as in the olden times the average height of people used to be a bit smaller than now. Therefor you're right to expect models to be scaled properly - and in fact a little bit smaller than for G8 figures, as these tend to be above average height of modern people - or for historical furniture maybe even a bit smaller - except for the beds of royalty, which to my knowledge in some - rare - cases were large enough to accompany a group of people.

    And yes, I've got some PAs kinda blacklisted too for trying to sell stuff that obviously was made in "hurry up and take a lot of shortcuts" mode... and I don't talk about old stuff, but some quite recent things in the shop...
     

     

    When mum and dad retired, they sold their house which was a large georgian property. The rooms were something around 14 feet high; the hall was the full 3 stories the property held. The stairs were different than most homes in that the were slightly lower with a deeper step - they were a joy to climb.

    So variation occurs, but providing variation and not to scale are different.

    The room might look like it isn't to scale, but all the components in it might be; that could well be a deliberate design decission; alternatively, the room could be about right but some of the components in it are just wrong. That is one example of what the OP means - or is my interpretation. :)

    I think you get my meaning. In the US the "typical" home is built with 8 ft high walls.  This is how the majority of new residential construction is built.  If one visits a lumber yard they will see raw materials in lengths and sizes with this in mind. In no way however do I expect that every building or house in the world is or was built that way. I lived in a farmhouse in Wales (a lot of years ago) that didn't fit the current practices. 
     

    What I object to is furniture that makes adults look like children and rooms (which are meant to be typical contemporary rooms)  where the door knobs are are eye level. I posted an example several posts back. If I pick a model in the store that is in the category of historical or fantasy, etc. then I don't expect contemporary appearance. 

  • MattymanxMattymanx Posts: 6,959
    Mattymanx said:

    I am a PA and I do agree with the OP that things should be to scale as best as possible.

    Thank you, Mattymanx!  You just became one of my favorite PAs. :) 

    Edited:  Fixing autocorrect error.

    Thank you and you're welcome !

     

    DustRider said:
    Mattymanx said:

    I am a PA and I do agree with the OP that things should be to scale as best as possible.

    Not only do you make your products to scale, but they are well researched too (as are maclean's, and other PA's noted here). I just wanted to commend you on the quality and attention to detail on your handgun.  I'm more into pre 1896 firearms, which often have some glaring issues that I just am unable to get past. It seems that many of the modern varieties also suffer from similar problems.  True, for many these inaccuracies may not be a huge problem,  but they can definitely add to an image feeling off just a bit.

    So anyway, a big thank you to you, and all the others who really try to model in proper scale and functionality based on real world objicts!

    Thank you, thank you and thank you.  You're welcome as well! :)

  • Ron KnightsRon Knights Posts: 1,805
    edited June 2020

    I once lived in a New Hampshire house that was built in 1765. You could easily see how the construction was related to materials at hand. The back rooms had floorboards that were a foot wide (deep?!). Much of the construction was handled with huge pegs instead of nails. The floorboards of the front rooms were more modern, thinner. Maybe someone replaced the front room floorboards with smaller ones sometime after the house was built. The back staircase had steeper steps, which were also smaller, from front to back. The front staircase was grander, had a nice railing, and faced the large front door. It appears most people rarely used the "grand entrance," but entered through the side door. That lead into a small entryway. The dining room was on the right, and living room on the left.

    Post edited by Ron Knights on
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