The We Will Miss You, Chohole Complaint Thread
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...my MB has PCIe 2.0 but like you mention, that should not be the issue (also inquired about it on tech forums before even considering a PCI3 4.0 card) . When I tired to change to a newer driver from my archive, I got a message that "no compatible Nvidia device was present" so that means the system is not seeing it. I'll check the ASUS site but this is a P6T board so not sure if there are even any recent BIOS updates.
...really hoping that is not the case as that is an expense I am not ready for yet since it would also mean new memory and CPU as well (about 1,250$ as I last priced). On my meagre income, a "stopgap" or "band aid" solution, instead of a "real upgrade", would be more costly in the long run as it will likely be obsolete within a year or two and I'll be back at square one again still facing a big expense on a tight budget.
My plan is to make the jump from W7 direct to W11 as the latter got rid of a number of things in 10 I had serious issues with, hence going with components that support W11..
I'll first try the BIOS update route.
...just reconstructed my system using PC Part Picker which flags components that have conflicts (like not being supported), and with the RTX 3060 SC, none show at all. . So definitely it's not the PCIe slots or the board.
While looking into updating the BIOS, came across a number of comments that said it's not a safe thing to do as it can corrupt the BIOS on the system so you cannot get it to boot up anymore to even roll back. So, not very comfortable with the idea.
Nothing to contribute... but good luck with that KK.
I think it is time to try to figure out how to fall asleep. I can do it but I can never remember how I do it,
...thank you, Yeah, very perplexing. I received a reply form their help desk but they think it's with the PSU. However, it is maybe a year old and is running just fine the Titan-X re-installed. I mentioned that in my reply, as well as my using a system build configurator with the components and OS the system has installed to see if there were any conflicts. As there were none, something else is afoot here.
Disclaimer Mode ON < the following is not intended as official advice >
Editing your Windows Registry is in the same category.
OK if you know what you're doing, take precautions, and operate carefully.
Make sure you have the absolute correct version to match your board. Arrange for uninterrupted power for the actual process.
Know the process inside-out, backwards & forwards,
check details all along the way. If possible research how your particular board permits BIOS updates.
There may be more than one way.
Most of all, don't panic and start yanking cords or pushing buttons too soon.
Disclaimer Mode OFF
...yeah ASUS has an update routine accessible through Start/All Programmes/Asus called AsusUpdate. (see attachment) which I installed when I built the system. I looked at it as well as the steps in the user's manual, but felt a but apprehensive as I began to step through the process,
I did however save a copy of the current BIOS to a USB stick
CPU-Z lists the BIOS brand being American Megatrends, current ver 1201 dated 02/24/2010 (which is what shows during boot up). .
This is something I never really bothered with as like editing the registry, one wrong move and the system becomes a "doorstop".
the only thing I can think of is that ot would seem to be a power problem , in that the card isn't being powered up.. I have seen refernces to issues with 8 and 6 pins PCIe power connectors on some car where the 8 pin doesn;t work, but a 6+2 does? (some 8 pin connectoprs have the the end two pins detachable, it seems) A mystery for sure..
...I was using a 6 +2.pin connector. Don't have any full 8 pin cables.
Regarding alternative methods of updating your BIOS: As tempting as it is, the "Update via Internet" method has with it the risk that your ISP flakes out somehow and boogers your BIOS during the automated update. Although I have successfully done it via automated Internet download. Works like a charm. HOWEVER, completely separating the download process from the BIOS burn process gives you a little more control over the environmental variables, and you end up with a copy of the new BIOS in a file or on a thumbdrive.
"Bricking" a motherboard isn't a complete disaster. The BIOS PROM can be reprogrammed by an expert with the right equipment and some elbow grease and $$ motivation.
The big unknown here is the graphics card. No need to waste energy looking for the needle in the haystack if it isn't there. I'd take steps to prove that the graphics card is or isn't functional. Use a different computer, or get it tested by a tech shop. Before your warrantee runs out.
Another thought: Is there a BIOS setting that switches the source of graphics processing (card or integrated). Some motherboards allow one or the other but not both.
Oops, I see you originally had a graphics card so I guess that's all taken care of. But still worth checking the BIOS settings thoroughly.
ah.. ok.. was just a thought
Complaint: Major nor'easter coming Sunday. https://www.weather.gov/media/mhx/LatestBriefing.pdf
Wow! It is close to me but not where I live.
Finally my real complaint. Why is it so difficult for me to sit at my desk and use my Bluetooth keyboard well. Or at least comfortably? I need to figure something out.
Another thought about BIOS issues: Resetting the BIOS with the motherboard jumper, or pulling the "coin-battery" for a minute or two, will reset the BIOS back to default settings if you had boogered up the settings by some adventuresome undocumented twiddling. But is usless if you corrupt the download of new BIOS software.
Complaint: Arghhh... I just noticed that my papa-bear machine, the big cheese, el gordo, my primary DAZing machine is not taking full advantage of its RAM. A few weeks ago I added 16GB to the existing 32GB. I used the same brand, same speed (Corsair Vengeance LPX 3200MHz) The 32GB worked fine at 3200MHz but after I added the extra 16GB into the two unoccupied slots, my system didn't boot the first time, so I forced a reboot by holding the power button for 10 seconds and the machine came up. I never checked the RAM speed until a couple days ago and discovered that I'm running at the much slower, standard speed of 2133MHz. Grump!
Apparently the 1st boot fails and the system automatically turns off the XMP feature of my RAM and falls back to standard speed, so it boots the 2nd time just fine, but running slower than I want. Boogers.
Upon checking the RAMs they look identical. They came in official looking Corsair boxes. However, the internal meta data shows that my original 32GB set identifies the manufacturer as "Samsung", which is expected because Samsung is a major memory chip foundry that makes memory for other companies. However, my 16GB set of RAM identifies the manufacturer as "<empty>". All other internal meta data specifications are identical including the XMP setting details. Yet, the system will not boot with XMP turned on.
Question for the overclocking Gurus: Apparently the XMP software doesn't think the 16GB modules are compatible with the 32GB modules. Is this normal? Is there any possibility of skipping the XMP settings and instead tweak the RAM voltages & timings manually to my desired 3200MHz speed? Or am I barking up the wrong tree? Or did I get a counterfeit set of RAM?
I read that Steam was giving away something in a little blurb somewhere. I went to the steam site and couldn't find out anything like that. I did find out the info was from a scam artist and probably had a scam link but I didn't see the scam link.
I'm not sure how close to you that will pass, but stay safe and good luck.
...received a second reply from EVGA this morning after I mentioned that he PSU was rather new and they acknowledged it may be the card instead. I have a few other feelers out there to check and will try a few more tests (including installing it in another machine) before I go that the warranty route as it will mean more waiting until a replacement card is available while 409$ sits in limbo.
As to the BIOS, an ISP hiccup scrozzing the board is one if the concerns I have. I'd probably just opt for getting a replacement board if that happened.
...saw that one yesterday while waiting for a newscast to post. Very well done. There's a whole series of these.
I live in Manteo, NC (see red pointer on attached map) which will be right in the middle of it. We are expecting winds of 40 to 60 mph with power outages. I'm not right on the coast but there will be 12 to 15 waves with significant ocean overwash and erosion along the coast.
I loved the cat video. I am thinking of turning in for the night before I become a pumpkin?
...well the test with the other system is a no-go it has an ASUS P8P-67 MB (LGA1155) MB. When I tried to insert the card it appeared ot not line up perfectly with the PCIe slot. Even though I had it right to the back of the caseit apperd to be one pin off. I did have to struggle to get the 3060 in my main system but there was the click of the retaining latch that said it was in. properly. Going online it is mentioned that PCIe x16 slots are the same so there should be backwards compatibility when it comes to inserting a card into the slot. so a 5.0 card should fit in a 2.0 slot.
For rendering, the main difference of inserting a newer card into an older slot is a reduction in frame performance, however that usually only impacts games. whereas with 3D graphic it only affects scene loading time.
I know people have been using the RTX 30xx series in PCIe 3.0 MBs with no issues. and PCIe 3.0 cards (like my Titan X) fit in 2.0 MBs so there should be no issue with a 4.0 card fitting a 2.0 slot. I'll give it another try as I found a transparent protective cover on the rear plate of the 3060 that I didn't notice before (because it was transparent) which I removed.
OK that didn't work. The card went in s bit easier but when I restarted the system, same results, nothing. Wish it would have fit in the other system but wasn't going to try and force it and possibly wind up damaging the card..
I then shut down an restarted in an attempt toreach the main BIOS Setup Utility to see if there was any setting that needed to be changed, but all that would come up was a the "Widows Boot Manager menu" with an F8 option that would take me to the Advanced Boo Options or and a selection for opening the Windows Memory Diagnostic tool. I tried a couple more times but only kept getting the Boot Manager.
So still not sure if it's the card or some incompatibility issue with the older MB. Would hate to have to return it not knowing for sure.
Hope you get that resolved soon :(
the store's shopping cart was loading slowly for me today.
...well did some more research and looks like RTX is a "wash" with W7.as the OS doesn't support DirectX12 which is required for Ray tracing to work. .Some games grant W7 the ability to handle ray tracing as if it did support DX12 but it's coded in the software of the game. Don't think Iray or Daz does the same.
Thee are just so many factors involved, it may well be the motherboard is just too old. the BIOS doesn't support UEFI or whatever however I would still expect the card to power up. I ran one more experiment with the 3060 without the displays connected so I could turn the box around to watch the fans as I started it up. They would spin up for a short while after boot up but then stop and not spin again. After re-installing the Titan-X it's fan continues spinning. So somehow at power up the 3060 starts but then appears to quit functioning save for passing a signal to display #1 labelled as "Generic VGA Monitor" in Control Panel > Display (unlike when the Titan is installed which lists both displays by model name). The PSU (850 w) is more than capable of powering the card so that isn't it.
Again the card is not recognised on GPU-Z, CPU-Z, Administrative tools > Computer Management, or MSI Afterburner and Nvidia Control panel will not open. What I need to do I guess is find someone with a newer MB that has at least PCI3 3.0 and test the card there to see if it works. If it does than it means having to do a hardware upgrade and getting Windows 11. Newegg just started selling W11 OEMs and has a deal going right now for the Pro Edition at 159$. I've also done some more shopping around and have been able to knock about 400$ off my original estimate by going with the following components (all which support W11) As just about every new Intel CPU only supports 2 memory channels now (even several Xeons) may as well move to and AMD Ruyzen to get more cores and better clock speed for the money.
Total about 915$ .
Add to this 159$ for a W11 Pro OEM. So I'm looking at around 1,074$ when all is said and done which again will impact my bank account rather seriously.
When the system is doing POST, it doesn't yet know which OS you are using. That can not be the reason for the card not working.
The minimum driver requirements for DS4.15.0.2 needed an update to W7 for the drivers to install, but once that was done, everything was fine.
Running MSI X99A SLI PLUS/i7-5820K/RTX 2070 Super with W7 Ultimate
Edit; You need to press the 'Delete' button when you start to access the Bios
I'm loading slowly today. Wait I mean I'm waking up slowly today.
is that toilet running still?
...ugh another...